Sushi Chefs Reveal The Markers Of A Good (And Bad) Sushi Restaurant

Here's what you need to know to separate excellent sushi restaurants from their subpar counterparts.
Not all sushi restaurants are created equal.
d3sign via Getty Images
Not all sushi restaurants are created equal.

If you’re a sushi fanatic, you’re hardly alone. Once a niche culinary delight limited by geography, this style of Japanese cuisine has captured the hearts and palates of gourmands and casual eaters around the world to become a mainstream favorite.

These days, it seems there’s always a sushi restaurant within a 5-minute radius in most major cities. But not all such establishments are created equal.

Whether you’re a seasoned sushi connoisseur or an eager novice venturing into the realm of raw seafood, understanding the characteristics that set apart excellent sushi restaurants from their subpar counterparts will help you avoid disappointment ― and possibly even illness.

We asked sushi chefs to share what they believe are the markers of a good ― and bad ― sushi restaurant. Below, find their tips for assessing the quality of an establishment and getting the most out of your sushi experience.

Sushi Rice

“The quality of rice being used is important,” said Shingo Akikuni, the chef at Shingo in Coral Gables, Florida. “Rice is a crucial part of good sushi and it needs to be as carefully selected and prepared as the fish.”

Pay attention to the consistency, moistness and flavor of the sushi rice.

“Expertly prepared sushi rice retains its delicate, fluffy texture,” said Hidekazu Tojo, the chef at Tojo’s Restaurant in Vancouver. “The seasoning is perfectly balanced with a touch of sweet, tart and brininess. It is served at about 37 degrees Celsius ― body temperature.”

He noted that a bad sign with sushi rice would be if it’s “undercooked, too sweet, too salty or too dry.”

“Even the type of rice is important ― short grain is the way to go,” noted Masaharu Morimoto, who owns a slew of Japanese restaurants around the world.

Seafood Quality

“There are several signs that can indicate a good sushi restaurant, including fresh and high-quality ingredients,” Morimoto said. “If the server or chef highlights seasonal sushi in addition to the menu, that is a good sign for the sushi program.”

Take a look at the sushi case when you arrive to see the fish the chef is working with and how it is stored and displayed. Color and vibrancy are a big factor to consider.

“Warning signs for poor fish quality are things like discoloration, browning and a lack of firmness,” said sushi chef Elijah Lehrer, who is vice president of culinary at Bamboo Sushi, which has locations in Portland, Seattle, Denver and the Bay Area. “Look for brightness and firmness of the fish. Use common sense and like anything else, do your research before you dine. Don’t be afraid to ask questions, just like you would at your local market or fish monger.”

He suggested asking where the fish comes from, what catch methods are used and whether it’s sustainably sourced.

“With the increasing environmental impacts of climate change and over-fishing, sustainability and fishery health should inherently be part of the fish quality conversation,” Lehrer noted.

Knowledge is power, so if you want to get better at distinguishing between excellent and subpar sushi spots, try to familiarize yourself with different species of fish and how they should appear.

“The fish and other seafood should be fresh, indicated by a glossy texture, fresh aroma and delicate flavor,” Tojo said. “It should be served at 2-4 degrees Celsius.”

He recommends being on alert for seafood that is not fresh or is served too cold.

In the U.S., government agencies have required that fish must be frozen before it is served raw, so your sushi is unlikely to be 100% fresh, but a high-quality sushi chef will ensure it’s as fresh as possible and has reached the optimum temperature for serving before plating a dish.

“If the seafood texture is dry, this indicates that the ingredients are not freshly prepared and that they have been left out or exposed to the air for too long,” Tojo added. “And good quality seaweed is crisp rather than chewy.”

Quality ingredients can set exceptional sushi restaurants apart from the rest.
Alexander Spatari via Getty Images
Quality ingredients can set exceptional sushi restaurants apart from the rest.

Chef Skill

“Skillful sushi chefs can also indicate a good sushi restaurant,” Morimoto said. “Fresh grating wasabi for some sushi courses is a good sign here. Describing each piece of fish in its Japanese and English name shows the attention to detail there, too.”

Look out for omakase options on the menu of a new sushi restaurant, even if you aren’t necessarily going to choose one of them.

“Offering an omakase experience is an indicator that the chef is confident in their craft,” Tojo said. “Translating to ‘leave it in my hands,’ omakase allows the chef to curate dishes depending on the fresh catch of the day or tailor the meal to the customer’s preferences or culinary adventurousness.”

There are different types of certifications a sushi chef can study and train to obtain through organizations like the Tokyo Sushi Academy and Sushi Chef Institute.

“When I dine at a sushi restaurant, I usually look for three ingredients: anago, saba, and tamago. It’s crucial to use the right cooking techniques with these ingredients,” said Chef Wen of Omakase in San Francisco. “I also pay attention to the proportion of rice, vinegar, and how each ingredient is cured with salt on nigiri.”

A sushi chef’s skill and training manifest in the techniques they employ, as well as the ability to take diners on a delicious journey.

“Poorly made sushi shows a lack of passion and good training,” Morimoto said. “Customer satisfaction should be top of mind, and the art of a show is very important, with good energy and eye contact.”

Akikuni likes to use a particular type of fish as his barometer to assess quality.

“Kohada nigiri, or gizzard shad which should be salted and cured in house is one of the measures of a good sushi chef,” he explained. “If a sushi spot has good Kohada, you can assume they are a good sushi restaurant and will have other quality offerings.”

Cleanliness

“A good sign is if the premises are clean and well-maintained, and the staff are tidy and wearing clean uniforms,” Tojo noted. “This indicates that the restaurant cares about food safety, customer comfort and a good working environment, and reflects on the quality of the establishment.”

Consider the sensory experience of being inside the restaurant.

“A good sushi restaurant upon entering should not smell like fish,” Akikuni said. “This indicates that the chefs are putting cleanliness at the top of their priorities.”

“Sushi Master” author Nick Sakagami, believes the cleanliness of the bathroom and eating surfaces is crucial.

“Someone who does not care about the cleanliness of their toilet is less likely to pay detailed attention to what they prepare in the realm of food safety,” he said. “By the same token, make sure that the surfaces of the restaurant, like tabletops and sushi bar counters are not sticky. If they clean those surfaces regularly, they shouldn’t be sticky.”

Cleanliness can also involve respect for allergies and other dietary restrictions.

“In our restaurants, we’re careful about allergens and how we handle, store and present items,” Lehrer said. “Shellfish is separated from fin fish, and our menu is almost entirely gluten-free for those with celiac or other food sensitivities.”

Hospitality

“An indication that a sushi restaurant might not be the best is a lack of warmth and genuine hospitality from the moment you walk in the door,” Morimoto said.

Omotenashi, which essentially refers to Japanese hospitality and mindfulness, is an important part of a sushi experience.

“Irasshaimase!” Lehrer said. “The best sushi restaurants make you feel immediately welcome with the unique traditional chef’s greeting. The sushi bar should be an interactive experience ― like your own chef’s table with a knowledgeable guide who’s engaged and communicative. A great sushi chef is excited to talk with you about what you like or don’t like and discover who you are as an eater.”

Bay Area sushi chef Ray Lee similarly sees interaction with diners as a sign of good quality.

“Service should include strong chef engagement,” he said, pointing to his San Francisco restaurants Akikos and Friends Only. “While it is not customary for most Japanese chefs to engage directly with guests, we recognize the immense value of close interaction between the chef and first-time omakase diners.”

Price

You don’t have to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars to ensure you’re patronizing a good sushi restaurant. But remember there’s still some link between price and quality.

“Good quality seafood comes at a cost, and unfortunately, costs continue to rise,” Tojo said. “Offering sushi at very low prices suggests that the restaurant may not be sourcing high-quality ingredients.”

Sushi prices can vary based on the local restaurant market, so a nice combo platter that costs under $20 in one mid-sized city might go for almost double in a place like New York City. Regardless of where you are, however, spending less than $10 on a plate of assorted sushi is probably not a recipe for a high-quality experience, especially in this age of inflation.

Basically, there are plenty of wonderful sushi restaurants offering delicious food at an affordable price point. But if the low, low cost seems way too good to be true, it might just be.

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