What The Heck Does Vitamin C Serum Do For Your Skin, Anyway?

Everything you need to know about Vitamin C serum, from how often you should use it to what color it should be.
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Could your morning glass of OJ give you clearer skin?

These days people are turning to Vitamin C to give their lackluster complexion a juicy glow. Sephora’s best Vitamin C serums promise results for dry skin, oily skin, acne scars, fine lines and wrinkles, and even dark spots and sun damage. Those are some big promises for small bottles. 

Before you head to the grocery store to stock up on orange juice and lemons, we put this trendy skin superfood to dermatologists and skincare experts for their take on the benefits of Vitamin C for your skin.

What does Vitamin C serum do for your skin? 

Vitamin C serums are acidic, which means they slough away dead cells from the skins surface leaving it brighter and smoother. This in turn speeds up new cell regeneration, says Susie Wang, cofounder of 100% PURE. “Vitamin C is highly acidic and very bitter, so when applied to the skin, the skin is triggered to ‘heal’ itself by accelerating the production of collagen and elastin,” Wang told HuffPost. “Collagen is the protein fibers that make skin plump and prevent sagging; elastin are also protein fibers that help skin bounce back.” 

“Vitamin C’s anti-aging, damage-repairing and UV-protecting powers make it a Holy Grail ingredient.”

- Sarah Lee, cofounder of Glow Recipe

One of Vitamin C’s biggest uses is for reducing scars, spots and other hyperpigmentation, says dermatologist Melanie Palm. “Vitamin C is a well-known brightening agent, as it interferes with abnormal pigmentation through tyrosinase inhibition of the melanin pigment pathway.” What does that mean in layman’s terms? “It is used topically to fade brown spots without altering normal skin pigmentation,” Palm says.

Can you eat a few oranges and get the same benefits as a Vitamin C serum?

Vitamin C actually is the super ingredient it claims to be, though you might need skip the juice section and instead head to the beauty department to score its benefits. “While ingesting Vitamin C is a great way to get your daily dose, applying Vitamin C topically through a skincare regimen allows the powerful antioxidant to perform its skin-brightening, hyperpigmentation-correcting and skin tone-evening benefits,” says Sarah Lee, cofounder of Glow Recipe“Vitamin C’s anti-aging, damage-repairing and UV-protecting powers make it a Holy Grail ingredient, but it takes time and consistent application to see the best results.” 

When should you use Vitamin C serum? 

Though dermatologists recommended a few different Vitamin C serums, they do agree on a few things, like when you should apply Vitamin C serum in your skincare routine. “Apply your Vitamin C before your moisturizer for the best results,” says Annie Tevelin, green beauty expert and founder of SkinOwl. “Let it dry for one minute before applying a moisturizer with SPF.” 

“If the serum has turned brown, return it and cease any use of it. Absolutely do not use if it has turned brown.”

- Susie Wang, cofounder of 100% PURE

There’s no real consensus among skincare experts on whether you’re better off wearing your serum in the morning or at night. Think of it in the daytime as another layer to protect your skin again free radicals and UV, and at night as a way to “undo oxidative damage from the day,” says dermatologist Tsippora Shainhouse of Rapaport Dermatology. Whenever you wear your serum, Wang recommends beginning with a lemon water rise to “prep the skin with a light dosage of Vitamin C to start.” 

How often should you use Vitamin C serum? 

Most of the skincare experts we spoke with recommend adding a Vitamin C serum to your skincare routine slowly before building up a daily or twice-daily tolerance. “I recommend every other day to daily use in the morning, typically three to five drops for the entire face,” Palm says. 

What color should your Vitamin C serum be? 

Vitamin C is quite unstable in its purest form, so look for stable formulas that are mixed with Vitamin E and ferulic acid to balance it out. This means that, just like a sliced apple will brown when exposed to air, Vitamin C serums often xidize over time. “When purchasing Vitamin C, it should be a very light yellowish color (almost clear). Over time it will start to darken, adjusting from yellow to orange to brown, eventually becoming black,” says esthetician Melissa Lekus of Melissa Lekus Skincare Consulting

That said, you shouldn’t keep using a formula that has oxidized, Wang says. “If the serum has turned brown, return it and cease any use of it. Absolutely do not use if it has turned brown.”  

Click through below for nine of the best Vitamin C serums recommended by skincare experts:

Best Dermatologist-Recommended Vitamin C Serums [slideshow]
For the best of the best: SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic(01 of09)
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The skincare experts who talked to HuffPost overwhelmingly recommend SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Vitamin C serum, but it doesn't come cheap. "Be aware that Vitamin C serums are a concentrated ingredient, thereby [are] very potent and active," says esthetician Melissa Lekus of Melissa Lekus Skincare Consulting. "So don’t be surprised when your Vitamin C serum is one of the most expensive products in your arsenal." So, what's the difference between a $10 Vitamin C serum and a $100 Vitamin C serum? It's due in part to its formula. "Vitamin C is an unstable molecule on its own, so it works best when combined with Vitamin E or ferulic acid," says dermatologist Tsippora Shainhouse of Rapaport Dermatology.


SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic is available at Dermstore for $166.
(credit:Dermstore)
For first timers: The Ordinary Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10%(02 of09)
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Dermatologist Erum Ilyas of Montgomery Dermatology recommends first-time users try The Ordinary's Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10%. It's a water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C, which is a fancy way of saying it's less potent than other forms of Vitamin C. "If it’s someone with lots of sun damage and looking for something more potent, I recommend the Vitamin C Suspension," she says. "The magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is effective and doesn’t tend to feel uncomfortable when used. I’m a fan of The Ordinary — I think of their products as a spice rack. It’s easier to modify routines day to day or week to week (or season to season) because their products have great ingredients. And, you can't argue with their price point."


The Ordinary Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10% is available at Beauty Expert for $10.50, or SkinStore for $9.60.
(credit:The Ordinary)
For a stable formula: Peter Thomas Roth Potent-C Power Serum(03 of09)
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Dermatologist Erum Ilyas of Montgomery Dermatology says that the key to buying a good Vitamin C formula is to educate yourself on its ingredients. "If you are going to look for a Vitamin C-containing product, make sure the concentration and type of Vitamin C is listed. L-ascorbic acid or tetrahexyldecyl (THD) ascorbate are the most active types." She also recommends searching for serums with between 10- to 20-percent concentration, like Peter Thomas Roth Potent-C Power Serum. "If [that's] not the case, Vitamin C can be very unstable on exposure to light, and essentially be useless. That’s money wasted.”


Peter Thomas Roth Potent-C Power Serum is available at Sephora for $95.
(credit:Peter Thomas Roth)
For daily use: Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum(04 of09)
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Though Vitamin C serums are touted as a remedy for sun spots, aging skin and a dull complexion, green beauty expert Annie Tevelin notes that healthy skin starts from the inside out. "Healthy skin really starts within, so eating your daily suggested amount of Vitamin C is great for your overall immunity, so grab fresh foods like kiwi, broccoli, strawberries, grapefruit," says Tevelin, who's also the founder of SkinOwl. "Applying a Vitamin C Serum topically is excellent for transforming dull, lackluster skin, especially post-summer months." She recommends Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum daily in the mornings, before gradually using it twice daily.


Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum is available at Ulta for $34.
(credit:Mad Hippie)
For all-natural ingredients: 100% PURE Vitamin C Serum(05 of09)
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Susie Wang, chemist and founder of 100% PURE, recommends prepping the skin at night using a lemon water rinse before applying your serum. "Topical Vitamin C works much faster and directly targets the skin to improve it, whereas ingesting Vitamin C boosts the immune system. Although this helps bolster collagen and elastin production, it's not targeted and works a lot slower since our body only accepts a certain amount of Vitamin C." For ingredient-obsessives, she recommends 100% PURE's Vitamin C Serum to plump skin, improve elasticity and slough off dead skin cells for a brighter, healthier glow.


100% Pure Vitamin C Serum is available at 100% Pure for $41.
(credit:100% Pure)
For dull skin: Dr. Dennis Gross C+ Collagen Brighten & Firm Vitamin C Serum(06 of09)
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Vitamin C is a "powerhouse ingredient," says esthetician Melissa Lekus of Melissa Lekus Skincare Consulting. "Vitamin C is the most abundant antioxidant in the body fighting free radicals to slow the aging process." She recommends Dr. Dennis Gross C+ Collagen Brighten & Firm Vitamin C Serum to help with hyperpigmentation, prevent the breakdown of collagen and actually increase collagen production for a smoother, brighter complexion.


Dr. Dennis Gross C+ Collagen Brighten & Firm Vitamin C Serum is available at Sephora for $78.
(credit:Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare)
For age spots: Citrix Vitamin C Pro-Collagen Brightening Serum(07 of09)
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If your main skincare concern is reducing the appearance of age spots and other skin discoloration, dermatologist Melanie Palm recommends Citrix Vitamin C Pro-Collagen Brightening Serum. "Vitamin C is a well-known brightening agent," she says. "It is used topically to fade brown spots without altering normal skin pigmentation.” With any new Vitamin C skincare product, she advises using three to five drops every other morning on the entire face for two weeks before gradually using it every day.


Citrix Vitamin C Pro-Collagen Brightening Serum is available at Dermstore for $114, or Walmart for $77.
(credit:Dermstore)
For acne scars: Sweet Chef Ginger + Vitamin C Serum Shot(08 of09)
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Glow Recipe cofounders Christine Chang and Sarah Lee know a thing or two about glowing skin thanks to their cult-favorite Avocado Melt Sleeping Mask. The duo recently launched an ultra-affordable line called Sweet Chef, that includes a brightening and tone-evening Vitamin C serum. "Vitamin C’s anti-aging, damage-repairing and UV-protecting powers make it a Holy Grail ingredient," Lee says, "but it takes time and consistent application to see the best results." She recommends Sweet Chef Ginger + Vitamin C Serum Shot for hyperpigmentation and acne scars.


Sweet Chef Ginger + Vitamin C Serum Shot is available at Glow Recipe for $20, or Target starting Jan. 27.
(credit:Glow Recipe)
For affordability: Oz Naturals Vitamin C Facial Serum(09 of09)
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Dermatologist Tsippora Shainhouse of Rapaport Dermatology recommends Oz Naturals Vitamin C Facial Serum for those who want a wallet-friendly serum. "[It's] a much less expensive, vegan-friendly Vitamin C serum with AHA (natural glycolic acid)," she says. "Consumers love the texture and notice brighter skin with reduction in hyperpigmentation over time." She advises wearing it in the morning under sunscreen for protection from free radicals, as well as as nighttime to undo oxidative damage from the day.


Oz Naturals Vitamin C Facial Serum is available at Oz Naturals for $18.
(credit:Oz Naturals)

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Sephora's Highest-Rated Vitamin C Serums [slideshow]
Tatcha Violet-C Brightening Serum 20% Vitamin C + 10% AHA(01 of10)
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Reviews: 287

Rating: 4.9 stars

Loves: 4,500

Promising review: "This product goes on nice and smooth and feels nice on your skin. It feels refreshing and smells nice. AHA is a great ingredient to add because it smooths skin and helps erase scars and other skin imperfections. I think this product has definitely helped smooth out and even out my skin tone."



Get Tatcha Violet-C Brightening Serum 20% Vitamin C + 10% AHA
(credit:Tatcha)
Biossance Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil(02 of10)
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Reviews: 275

Rating: 4.4 stars

Loves: 30,000

Promising review: "I've only been using this several days now, and there is already a noticeable difference in my skin tone. I have intensely dry/dehydrated skin and have been using 3 drops morning and evening in conjunction with my moisturizer. Almost all the redness around the center of my face is gone. It smells lovely, too."



Get Biossance Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil
(credit:Biossance)
Olehenriksen Truth Serum(03 of10)
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Reviews: 4,400

Rating: 4.3 stars

Loves: 150,000

Promising review: "I absolutely love this product. It is one of the few products that I buy repeatedly. It is like liquid gold. My skin has been so clear and bright since using this everyday. Highly recommended. But you do need to use a moisturizer over it, especially if you have dry skin."



Get Olehenriksen Truth Serum
(credit:Olehenriksen)
Dior Capture Youth Glow Booster Age-Delay Illuminating Serum(04 of10)
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Reviews: 65

Rating: 4.3 stars

Loves: 10,000

Promising review: "Since using this product, I’ve noticed that my skin is clearer and more glowing. It’s an amazing product. And there’s so much product in that bottle."



Get Dior Capture Youth Glow Booster Age-Delay Illuminating Serum
(credit:Dior)
Herbivore Prism Exfoliating Glow Potion(05 of10)
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Reviews: 150

Rating: 4.3 stars

Loves: 20,000

Promising review: "I have very stubborn acne prone skin and I often have clogged pores (aka tiny bumps) and large cystic acne on my chin area. This serum has made my skin smooth, soft and poreless! I’ve noticed a huge improvement in the texture of my skin and fewer breakouts or clogged pores."



Get Herbivore Prism Exfoliating Glow Potion
(credit:Herbivore Botanicals)
Peter Thomas Roth Potent-C Power Serum(06 of10)
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Reviews: 540

Rating: 4.2 stars

Loves: 10,000

Promising review: "Omg I have never seen a fast result from using a product in my life. It has been a 5 days since I started using it and I can already see my acne scars fading away and my skin feeling plump and healthy."



Get Peter Thomas Roth Potent-C Power Serum
(credit:Peter Thomas Roth)
Murad Advanced Active Radiance Serum(07 of10)
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Reviews: 213

Rating: 4.2 stars

Loves: 6,100

Promising review: "This serum is WONDERFUL. I have pigmentation issues on my face and this has really helped. Make sure you are wearing SPF every day while using this product and let your skin absorb the serum for the suggested minute."



Get Murad Advanced Active Radiance Serum
(credit:Murad)
Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum(08 of10)
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Reviews: 1,400

Rating: 4 stars

Loves: 110,000

Promising review: "I have pretty uneven skin, acne scars, and pigmentation. After using this product for 2 weeks I started seeing results, my skin was brighter and my complexion started evening out."



Get Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum
(credit:Drunk Elephant)
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum(09 of10)
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Reviews: 352

Rating: 3.9 stars

Loves: 20,000

Promising review: "I hate that this serum works so well because it's so expensive, but it genuinely does exactly what it says it's going to do: it brightens, plumps, and tones immediately after first use. I've tried so many vitamin C serums to help with my hyper-pigmentation and this is really the only product that's made a noticeable difference."



Get Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
(credit:Sunday Riley)
Kiehl's Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate 12.5% Vitamin C(10 of10)
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Reviews: 154

Rating: 3.8 stars

Loves: 10,000

Promising review: "I break out very easily, and almost all moisturizers make my skin even oilier than it already is. I was thrilled with how well this moisturized my skin without causing any breakouts or shine."



Get Kiehl's Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate 12.5% Vitamin C
(credit:Kiehl's)

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